A dusty blend of cedary spice, mentholated herbs, rose petals and sour cherry wafts up from the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino. It's round and supple in feel, with floral-laced red and black fruits complemented by a subtle tinge of sweet spice. This leaves a bitter twang of sour berries, while a burst of residual acidity adds a cheek-puckering freshness, and a gentle tug of tannin slowly recedes. The 2018 has improved each time I've tasted it in the last five months, and it now shows the ruggedness of Northwestern Montalcino Sangiovese, but in a wonderfully balanced way.

Starts out rich, with a touch of glycerol in the texture, before civilized tannins take over on the finish. Offers plum, cherry, earth, tobacco and iron notes that prevail, with a firm grip of tannins on the finish. Best from 2026 through 2043. 15,000 cases made, 6,000 cases imported.